NOTE:

IF YOU ARE A BEGINNER, THIS IS THE REAR YOU WANT TO START WITH. THE 9" FORD REAR IS A MODEL OF SIMPLICITY FOR ADJUSTMENT OF PINION DEPTH AND SETTING BACKLASH

NOTE:

TO PERFORM THIS REBUILD, YOU SHOULD HAVE A SHOP MANUAL THAT LISTS TORQUE SPECS, A FULL SIZE FLOOR JACK , TWO (3 TON MIN) JACK STANDS, A DIAL INDICATOR WITH MAGNETIC/STATIC BASE, A VIERNER CALIPER, GEAR PATTERN GREASE, "RED" GRADE THREAD LOCKER. INCH-LB TORQUE WRENCH, AND 150+ FT-LB TORQUE WRENCH

1. REMOVE WHEELS AND PLACE REAR AXLE ON JACKSTANDS. I LIKE JACKING BETWEEN SHOCK MOUNT AND CENTER SECTION. JACK STANDS SHOULD BE PLACED BETWEEN SETS OF U-BOLTS, DIRECTLY UNDER LEAF SPRINGS.

2. RELEASE EMERGENCY BRAKE. REMOVE BRAKE DRUMS.

    BACKING OFF ON INTERNAL SHOE ADJUSTING STAR WHEEL (ACCESSED THROUGH HOLE IN BACKING PLATE) AND/OR HITTING BRAKE DRUM WITH HAMMER BETWEEN 2 STUDS IN AXIAL DIRECTION MAY BE NEEDED TO REMOVE STUBBORN DRUMS. WHEN HAMMERING DRUM, KEEP WHEEL NUTS ON STUDS TO AVOID THREAD DAMAGE.

3. ROTATE AXLE TO LINE UP HOLE IN AXLE FLANGE WITH ONE AXLE RETAINING BOLT. REMOVE AXLE RETAINING BOLT. REPEAT THIS 3 MORE TIMES TO REMOVE A TOTAL OF 4 AXLE RETAINING BOLTS. REMOVE AXLE BY PULLING STRAIGHT OUT. AXLE MAY REQUIRE SUBSTANTIAL FORCE TO BE REMOVED. ENSURE SMALL PAN IS UNDER END OF AXLE ASSY TO CATCH ANY LEAKING REAR END FLUID. USE MASKING TAPE TO MARK AXLE AS TO DRIVER OR PASSENGER SIDE.

 4. INSPECT AXLE BEARING AND RACE FOR PITTING, CORROSION, OR WEAR. CAREFULLY INSPECT AXLE SEAL FOR MISSING RUBBER. IF RUBBER IS SHOT, NEW SEALS WILL BE NEEDED. REINSTALLING AXLE AND LOCATING MISSING PART OF SEAL ON TOP OF TUBE AND/OR USING GASKET SEALER WILL NOT WORK CORRECTLY.  I TRIED THEM BOTH. REPLACING AXLE SEALS MAY REQUIRE NEW BEARINGS (DEPENDING HOW THEY PRESS OFF) AND WILL REQUIRE NEW BEARING RETAINER RING. ENSURE BEARING RACES ARE CHANGED IF NEW BEARINGS ARE INSTALLED.

5. REMOVE 10 NUTS FROM 3RD MEMBER ASSEMBLY. REMOVE 10 BRASS WASHERS FROM STUDS TAKING CARE TO NOT DESTROY THEM. BENDING THEM SLIGHTLY TO GET THEM OFF IS OK. PICTURE SHOWS 3RD MEMBER ALL READY OFF STUDS.

6. USING RUBBER HAMMER OR BOTH HANDS, CRACK GASKET, PULLING UPWARD ON 3RD MEMBER ASSY. ENSURE LARGE PAN IS UNDER 3RD MEMBER TO CATCH OIL. SMALL SCREWDRIVER CAN BE PLACED AT BOTTOM BETWEEN 3RD MEMBER AND HOUSING TO ALLOW THOROUGH FLUID DRAINING. DRAIN FOR 1 HOUR MIN TO ENSURE ALL OIL IS OFF 3RD MEMBER.

7. REMOVE 3RD MEMBER. JERKING UP/DOWN AND SIDE/SIDE MOTIONS MAY BE REQUIRED TO GET 3RD MEMBER OUT. SOMETIMES STUDS ARE ANGLED SLIGHTLY, MAKING 3RD MEMBER A TIGHT FIT. PLACE 3RD MEMBER ON CLEAN RAGS/SURFACE. SOP UP REMAINING FLUID IN BOTTOM OF CASE. CHECK FOR HEAVY/LARGE METAL PARTICLES ON CASING BOTTOM.

 8. SETUP 3RD MEMBER ON BLOCKS AS SHOWN. A 6 X 6 AND 2 -2 X 4’S ON EITHER SIDE WORKS WELL FOR THE CORRECT HEIGHT.

IF THIS IS YOUR FIRST GEAR SETUP/INSTALL, YOU MAY WANT TO PERFORM A REFERENCE CHECK ON BACKLASH AND A PATTERN CHECK ON DRIVE AND COAST. THIS WILL GIVE YOU A GOOD IDEA OF WHAT BACKLASH YOU WILL NEED AND WHAT THE GEAR PATTERNS LOOK LIKE UPON RE-ASSEMBLY. SKIP 9, 10 AND 11 IF YOU ARE SEASONED GEAR INSTALLER.

9. INSTALL DIAL INDICATOR AS SHOWN. MAKE SURE DIAL INDICATOR IS EXTREMELY RIGID, OR RESULTS WILL BE SKEWED. ENSURE DIAL POINTER IS SET SO IT TOUCHES THE TOP OF ONE GEAR TOOTH AND IS TANGENT TO THE OUTER ARC OF RING GEAR TEETH. HOLD PINION FLANGE SOLID AND ROTATE RING GEAR BACK AND FORTH, ENSURING PINION/FLANGE DOES NOT MOVE. PLAY SHOULD BE EVIDENT AND THE AMOUNT OF BACK AND FORTH PLAY IS CALLED BACKLASH. IT SHOULD BE AROUND .008 TO .012 INCHES.

 10. PAINT ALL RING GEAR TEETH, BOTH SIDES, WITH GEAR MARKING COMPOUND (USUALLY A WHITE TYPE OF GREASE). PUT FORCE ON RING GEAR IN EITHER DIRECTION (SMALL RUBBER PAD PRESSED AGAINST RING GEAR TEETH WORKS WELL FOR THIS). SPIN PINION/FLANGE BACK AND FORTH, 10 OR 20 TIMES, ENSURING 5 OR 6 RING GEAR TEETH MESH WITH PINION GEAR TEETH. RELEASE FORCE ON RING GEAR AND ROTATE IT TO A POINT WHERE PREVIOUSLY MESHED TEETH (PATTERN IN GREASE) CAN BE SEEN. PATTERN SHOULD LOOK LIKE CORRECT MESH PATTERN IN DIAGRAM BELOW.

 11. REPEAT PROCEDURE, FORCING RING GEAR IN OPPOSITE DIRECTION. CHECK PATTERN AGAIN. BOTH PATTERNS SHOULD BE IN CENTER OF TOOTH AND NOT RUNNING OFF THE EDGE OF ANY TEETH. PATTERN CAN BE CHECKED AT VARIOUS LOCATIONS ON RING GEAR TO ENSURE PATTERNS ARE THE SAME OVER ENTIRE RING GEAR. DOING THIS WILL ALSO ENSURE RING GEAR IS SEATED CORRECTLY ON DIFFERENTIAL AND RUNOUT ON RING GEAR IS ACCEPTABLE.

12. REMOVE DIAL INDICATOR IF INSTALLED AND LOOSEN 4 CARRIER BEARING CAP BOLTS. MAKE SURE BEARINGS CAPS ARE MARKED IN SOME WAY SO THEY ARE INSTALLED AS THEY CAME OUT. THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE. REMOVE CARRIER BEARING CAPS. REMOVE DIFFERENTIAL/RING GEAR, ENSURING BEARING RACES/THREADED SIDE ADJUSTERS DO NOT FALL ON FLOOR.

13. USING LARGE ADJUSTABLE WRENCH, HOLD PINION FLANGE AND REMOVE PINION NUT. REMOVE 5 BOLTS HOLDING PINION, PINION BEARINGS AND RETAINER TO MAIN CASING.

14. REMOVE PINION ASSEMBLY. CARE SHOULD BE EXERCISED TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO RUBBER O-RING ON PINION ASSEMBLY. ENSURE METAL SHIM(S) BETWEEN MAIN CASING AND PINION RETAINER ARE ACCOUNTED FOR AND NOT DAMAGED. SLIDE PINION OUT OF RETAINER (MAY NEED TO BE PRESSED OUT) AND PRY OFF PINION SEAL ON END OF RETAINER.

15. PRESS OFF AND REPLACE REMAINING PINION BEARING. REPLACE BEARING RACES ON BOTH SIDES OF PINION RETAINER. REINSTALL PINION INTO RETAINER .

 16. INSTALL NEW CRUSH COLLAR ON PINION (SEE PICTURE BELOW). INSTALL REMAINING PINION BEARING, PINION FLANGE, AND NEW PINION NUT. HOLDING PINION FLANGE WITH VERY LARGE ADJUSTABLE WRENCH, TORQUE NUT TO 175 FT-LBS. ENSURE ROTATIONAL FORCE OF PINION GEAR DOES NOT EXCEED 5-8 IN-LBS FOR NEW BEARINGS OR 8 IN-LBS FOR USED BEARINGS. IT IS BEST TO CHECK ROTATIONAL FORCE OFTEN WHILE TORQUEING, AS THE ROTATIONAL FORCE WILL GIVE YOU A BETTER INDICATION OF PINION BEARING PRE-LOAD THAN THE PINION NUT TORQUE. TORQUING CLOSE TO, BUT NOT EXACTLY TO, THE SPECIFIED TORQUE MAY  BE REQUIRED IF ROTATIONAL FORCE LIMIT HAS BEEN REACHED.

16. REMOVE AND REPLACE EXTRA SMALLER PINION BEARING FROM MAIN CASE.  RETAINING RING CAN BE PRIED OUT AND USUALLY REUSED IF NOT DESTROYED.  ENSURE CASING AROUND THIS BEARING IS NOT CRACKED  (SEE SECOND PICTURE, LEFT SIDE). IT IS A COMMON PROBLEM, ESPECIALLY AFTER HARD USE.  IF IT IS CRACKED, YOU MAY WANT TO CONSIDER UPGRADING TO A NODULAR CASE AND/OR A  PINION HOUSING THAT ACCEPTS LARGER BEARINGS.

17. USING CALIPER, MEASURE THICKNESS OF METAL SHIM THAT WAS REMOVED WHEN PINION ASSEMBLY WAS REMOVED FROM MAIN CASE. INSTALL PINION ASSEMBLY. ENSURING THAT O-RING IS NOT DAMAGED AND THAT METAL SHIM IS ALIGNED PROPERLY (SEE PICTURES AFTER STEP 14). IF YOU ARE INSTALLING NEW PINION (GEARSET), YOU MAY WANT TO CHECK AND SEE IS END OF OLD AND NEW PINIONS HAVE MARKS LIKE +1 OR -2. IF THEY BOTH HAVE THIS MARKING, THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO ADD OR SUBTRACT PINION SHIMS IN THOUSANDS (.001) OF AN INCH. IF OLD PINION WAS +2 AND NEW PINION IS -1, YOU WILL NEED TO SUBTRACT .003 INCHES FROM THE ORIGINAL SHIM. THIS IS OPPOSITE WHAT YOU WOULD DO ON MOST DIFFERENTIALS, AS PINION SHIMS ON A FORD 9 INCH CHANGE PINION DEPTH IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION COMPARED TO MOST DIFFERENTIALS.  THIS WILL GIVE YOU A GOOD STARTING POINT FOR PINION DEPTH 

18. IF DIFFERENTIAL IS TO BE REPLACED/REBUILT OR NEW GEARSET IS TO BE INSTALLED, REMOVE RING GEAR BOLTS, TAP RING GEAR OFF WITH PLASTIC HAMMER. USE AXLE SHAFT INSERTED INTO ONE END OF DIFFERENTIAL TO AID IN REMOVING RING GEAR BOLTS. IF RING /PINION AND DIFFERENTIAL ARE TO BE RE-USED, MARK RING GEAR SO IT CAN BE  REPLACED IN THE EXACT SPOT IT WAS TAKEN OFF FROM.

25.  REPEAT PROCEDURE, FORCING RING GEAR IN OPPOSITE DIRECTION. CHECK PATTERN AGAIN. BOTH PATTERNS SHOULD BE IN CENTER OF TOOTH AND NOT RUNNING OFF THE EDGE OF ANY TEETH. PATTERN CAN BE CHECKED AT VARIOUS LOCATIONS ON RING GEAR TO ENSURE PATTERNS ARE THE SAME OVER ENTIRE RING GEAR. DOING THIS WILL ALSO ENSURE RING GEAR IS SEATED CORRECTLY ON DIFFERENTIAL AND RUNOUT ON RING GEAR IS ACCEPTABLE. IF RING GEAR/PINION GEARS WERE REUSED, SKIP PART 26.